How to Stop Making Mistakes Painting Warhammer

This post is part of the Notts Hobbies 30 Day Army Painting Accelerator, Click here to get your free copy.

An important decision when painting an army is the order in which you paint each part of the model.

This can impact the time it takes to paint each model, as it is faster to paint larger areas or reduce the need for touch-ups.

Depending on the model, we will either paint the main colour of the model first or paint outward, from the torso to the outermost points.

Space Marines are a good example of a model where we paint the main colour first, then the other parts of the model.

 As most of a Space Marine is armour, this is painted first in the example below, including highlights.

the blue armour painted of a ultramarine space marine

Then, the metallic parts of the model are painted, such as the aquila and rims of the shoulder pads, as well as other metallic parts.

armour and metallics painted on an ultramarine space marine

In the third photo, the blacks and browns are blocked in, and finally, the eyes are painted.

an ultramarine space marine, partly painted without the eyes being painted
an ultramarine space marine assault intercessor

The other order to paint models is from the innermost part of the model outwards (in to out)

The Skaven Clanrat below was painted this way due to the variety of textures on the model. The skin was painted first before the robes, as it’s below the fabric.

The reasoning behind this is that when the skin is painted, some paint may transfer to the robes, but this is painted over when the fabric is painted.

If the fabric is painted with minimal brush pressure, it should not touch the skin, as it is lower than the robes.

In the first image, the midtone was applied to the skin.

a skaven clanrat with only its skin painted

Then the robes were overbrushed and an off white drybrush was applied to all of the non-metallic areas.

a skaven clanrat with only the robes and skin painted

In the third image a contrast paint was applied to the tail and eyes and a thinned down brown was applied to the belt and wooden shield.

A thinned paint and a speed paint were used in these areas, as they had been pre-shaded by the previous drybrush. This allowed us to be messier with the drybrush and remove the need to highlight these areas later in the painting process.

a partly painted skaven clanrat with the metallics yet to be painted

Finally, in the last photo, the metallics were basecoated and washed.

a painted skaven clanrat

This post is part of the Notts Hobbies 30 Day Army Painting Accelerator, Click here to get your free copy.

Glossary

Basecoat – Applying a flat layer of colour over all of a surface

Drybrushing - a miniature painting technique where most of the paint is removed from the brush so it deposits paint on the raised surfaces of a model.

Highlight – painting the bright colours on raised parts of a model so they stand out.

Midtone – the mid point of a surface that isn’t highlights or shadows

Overbrushing - a miniature painting technique where some of the paint is removed from the brush so the paint isn’t deposited in the deepest parts of a model.

Touch Up – painting over a colour from a different part of a model

Wash – A thinned-down paint that runs into the recesses

Back to blog

Leave a comment